one white guy

"Men come tamely home at night only from the next field or street, where their household echoes haunt, and their life pines because it breathes its own breath over again; their shadows, morning and evening, reach farther than their daily steps. We should come home from far, from adventures, and perils, and discoveries every day, with new experience and character." Henry David Thoreau

FotoFeb ’12: Kabalagala

(This photo does absolutely nothing to explain Kabalagala to you, but it’s the only picture I could take within respect and reason.)

Last night, I joined a big group of friends in Kabalagala, the borough of Kampala that supposedly never sleeps. As part a new series of “random acts of epic-ness,” these friends were hosting a 24-hour vigil there – just to verify if this neighborhood ever takes a break. (I only lasted from dinner time to one, so I can neither confirm or deny.)

Truth be told, there’s so much along the one major street that I wish I could have photographed for you, but couldn’t due to respect and safety. Kabalagala is full of the young and aspirationally trendy – college girls in far too short skirts avoiding young men with knock off Prada and Dolce&Gabbana logos across their chests. In that way, it’s like any city in the world at any moment.

Along the road, tired vendors rotate whole chickens under the glow of a single lightbulb to attract the peckish passersby. Hole in the wall bars pump American and local dance tracks louder and louder until each overblows its neighbor. Twinkle lights cluster amidst the few trees and balconies along the street. It’s incredible for people-watching and for getting the feel of a very specific slice of Kampala, but you’d never want to stand still for very long.

At the same time, Kabalagala seems to be one of most unsafe neighborhoods I’ve visited. Prostitutes are notoriously pushy. Muggings are frequent. I was always paranoid about my wallet/camera/phone and checked them compulsively. Thankfully, the doormen at the restaurants and bars were thorough and responsible, so I felt fairly safe.

All in all, my night out in Kabalagala – probably only my second there ever – was a ton of fun. I think my nerves will prohibit me from attending on the regular, but every once in a while it’s fun to chase the promise of a sleepless city. Maybe next time I’ll last a little longer.

FotoFeb ’12: Critters

You have no idea how happy I was to see this little guy on my apartment walls:

Our house was brand new when we moved in, ergo no bugs or anything had discovered it yet. Over the first few months, they slowly started encroaching: a spider here, a trail of ants, a few cockroaches there. Little by little becomes a lot. But while most houses here have a few resident lizard friends to tame the insect population, we had none. And I couldn’t wait for the day we’d get one.

I know it’s weird, but it’s a thing.

Finally, over the last week, I’ve been thrilled (legitimately more than I should be) to see this little dude checking out the place. He’s about two inches long and crazy fast. And I love him. I hope he grows big, brings all his friends, and takes care of all the mosquitos and spiders I’ve been slapping for the last few months.

I think this is the start of a beautiful friendship.

FotoFeb ’12: French Film in Kampala

On Wednesdays, local watering hole Mish Mash erects its giant bed-sheet screen and hosts a film night. Tonight, some new good friends of mine took in the charming Amélie under the stars then talked late into the night. Pretty stellar mid-week escape.

Raymond Dufayel, aka Glass Man: “Ma petite Amélie, vous n’avez pas des os en verre. Vous pouvez vous cogner à la vraie vie. Si vous laissez passer cette chance, alors avec le temps, c’est votre coeur qui va devenir aussi sec et cassant que mon squelette. Alors, allez-y, nom d’un chien!”

“So, my little Amélie, you don’t have bones of glass. You can throw yourself against real life. If you let this chance pass, eventually, your heart will become as dry and brittle as my skeleton. So, go ahead, dammit!”

FotoFeb ’12: Facing Fears & Fish Heads

In my defense, I’ve eaten a lot of weird things: whole-guppy curries in Ghana, goat guts in Kenya, deep-fried grasshoppers in Uganda, various cultural delicacies from all over. I’ve eaten anything and everything with my fingers and from street vendors or villages. I like a little adventure on my plate.

But one simple little dish has tempted my gag reflex for almost two years now:

This is Samson. He is a fish head and, up until today, I could not eat him. His little face was not the reason for my food fear; I actually find that somewhat amusing. But I’ve witnessed plenty of coworkers chow down on these dudes, those gelatinous eyeballs, frilly gills, and that rough little tongue. It’s the texture that gets me. But today, I faced my fears and ate him, eyeballs and all. Read the rest of this entry »

FotoFeb ’12: Gettin’ Fresh

Nicole and I took a drizzly stroll over to the nearby Ntinda New Market today to stock up on fruits and veg for the seven-day cleanse we started. (Spoiler alert: I already failed.) I admit I haven’t taken full advantage of such a wide assortment of produce just up the road, but with some good buys today and fun interactions with the market ladies (lots of impromptu photo shoots), I plan to make it more of a routine.

And here’s what I got today: a watermelon, a pineapple, two bunches of greens, and some carrots. In total, 9000 shillings, or about $3.83. Not a a bad haul.

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